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means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from
dropping.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES AND OTHER
FOUR SIDED PROJECTS
To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest
that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop
a “FEEL” for your saw.
Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the ones shown
in Figure 12. Sketch A in Figure 12 shows a joint made by using the
bevel adjustment to bevel the edges of the two boards at 45 degrees
each to produce a 90 degree corner. For this joint the miter arm was
locked in the zero position and the bevel adjustment was locked at 45
degrees. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side against
the table and the narrow edge against the fence. The cut could also
be made by mitering right and left with the broad surface against the
fence.
CUTTING TRIM MOLDING AND OTHER FRAMES
Sketch B in Figure 12 shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at
45 degrees to miter the two boards to form a 90 degree corner. To
make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and the miter
arm to 45 degrees. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat
side on the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
The two sketches in Figure 12 are for four side objects only.
As the number of sides changes, so do the miter and bevel angles.
The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes.
(The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length.) For a shape
that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula. 180 degrees
divided by the number of sides equals the miter or bevel angle.
If you have any questions, call 1-800-54-HOW-TO
- EXAMPLES -
NO. SIDES ANGLE MITER OR BEVEL
445°
536°
630°
7 25.7°
8 22.5°
920°
10 18°
CUTTING COMPOUND MITERS
A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel
angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make frames or
boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in Figure 13.
NOTE: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel
clamp knob (10) and the miter clamp handle (4) are securely
tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any changes
in bevel or miter.
CUTTING CROWN MOLDING
In order to fit properly, crown molding must be compound mitered with
extreme accuracy.
The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles
that, when added together, equal exactly 90 degrees. Most, but not
all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat
against the ceiling) of 52 degrees and a bottom rear angle (the part
that fits flat against the wall) of 38 degrees.
PRETESTING WITH SCRAP MATERIAL IS EXTREMELY
IMPORTANT!
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