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TROUBLESHOOTING17.
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE SOLUTION/REASONS
No reading on the am-
meter.
Clamps are not making a
good connection.
2-amp charge rate is be-
ing used.
Check for poor connec-
tions to battery and frame.
Make sure connecting
points are clean. Rock
clips back and forth for a
better connection.
Ammeter may show no
activity at the 2-amp
charge rate.
No reading on ammeter.
Fan inside wheel charger
appears to not be work-
ing.
No power at receptacle.
AC cord and/or extension
cord is loose.
Check for open fuse or
circuit breaker supplying
AC outlet.
Check power cord and
extension cord for loose
tting plug.
Circuit breaker in charger
cycles on and off with a
clicking sound.
Shorted battery clamps.
Shorted battery.
Charger leads reversed.
Volt/Amp Selector Switch
set to the START position.
Circuit breaker cycles
when current draw is
too high. Separate the
clamps. Check for worn
cables and replace if
needed.
Have a Sears technician
test the battery.
Correct Connections.
Correct Volt/Amp Selector
setting.
Short start cycle when
cranking engine.
Drawing more than 250
amps for a period of 3
seconds or less.
Failure to wait for 4
minutes (240 seconds)
between cranks.
The charger may be
heated up.
Battery may be severely
discharged.
Crank time varies with the
amount of current drawn.
If cranking draws more
than 250 amps, crank
time may be less than 3
seconds.
Wait 4 minutes before
next crank.
The thermal protector may
have tripped and needs a
little longer to close. Make
sure that the charger
vents are not blocked.
Wait and try again.
On a severely discharged
battery, charge for 10 to
15 minutes in the 20 amp
manual rate to help assist
in cranking.