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Cleaning
When cleaning chuck components, make sure to
remove all grease, sludge, and metal particles
using a brush and clear-type mineral spirits
or standard paint thinner. Avoid using white-
colored mineral spirits, acetone, brake parts
cleaner, gasoline, or acids. If an incorrect solvent
is used, stains, additives, acids, or contaminants
can be left behind as a corrosive coating. After
cleaning and drying parts, be sure to wipe down
parts with an oiled rag to prevent rust.
Light rust can be removed in a blast cabinet
with soda blasting media. For heavy rust, have
the chuck components “hot tanked” at a local
automotive machine shop (remove all non-ferrous
items first or they may dissolve).
Inspect all components carefully for burrs, wear,
scoring, bent parts, cracks, and thread damage.
Carefully inspect the chuck jaw clamping surface
for tapered wear from front to back. For minor
wear, jaw regrinding may be more economical
than jaw replacement. If the taper is heavy,
or grip, or work holding accuracy is a problem,
chuck replacement is likely required.
Burrs, dings, flakes, high spots, or galled
surfaces can usually be removed by lightly
dressing them away with diamond lapping
boards or honing stones with lapping oil. Be
sure not to change part dimensions while
dressing surfaces. Thread damage can usually be
corrected with files and thread chasing tools.
If any parts are overly worn, bent, cracked,
or otherwise damaged, they must be replaced
(if available). Never attempt to repair chuck
components by welding them. If damaged parts
are unavailable, replace the chuck. Continuing
to use a chuck with damaged components will
increase the risk of accidental death or serious
injury. Do not risk it!
If replacing fasteners, make sure to use the same
hardness or grade as the original fasteners that
were installed on the chuck.
Reassembly
Brush all internal chuck components with a
generous coat of chuck grease, but do not pack
the chuck full of grease. Re-assemble components
in the reverse order of disassembly. Make sure to
follow the Chuck Jaw Installation instructions
to ensure that the jaws are installed correctly.
Make sure you only use approved chuck
lubricants. Some lubricants can stain your
chuck or have unintended reactions with cutting
fluid, which will destroy their ability to properly
lubricate the chuck.
To avoid stripping threads or cracking a casting,
never use fasteners to draw components together
and avoid using impact tools. Instead, be patient
and properly seat the mating parts, then use
hand tools and a recently calibrated torque
wrench to tighten fasteners.
Note: Some Features &
Fasteners are Excluded
for Clarity
Rear
Chuck Body
and Fasteners
Scroll Gear
Pinion
and
Retaining Pin
Front
Chuck Body
Figure 11. Chuck components.
Inspection & DressingDisassembly
1. Verify that registration marks have been
made on the chuck and spindle. (Refer to
Registration Marks section for details.)
2. Inspect the jaws and their slots to make sure
they have matching numbers or marks. If
none are found, stamp or scribe your own
before continuing. (During re-assembly, jaws
must be installed in the same slots.)
3. Use the chuck key to back out and remove
the chuck jaws.
4. Unthread all chuck fasteners and separate
the chuck halves, then remove the remaining
chuck components to completely disassemble
the chuck (see below).
-8-
Mfg. Since 1/11
Model SB1224
INSTRUCTIONS