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Pocket Cutting
Pocket cuts are made in the middle of the
workpiece when it can not be cut from an
edge. We recommend using a Sawzall
®
reciprocating saw or jig saw for this type
of cut. However, if you must use a circular
saw to make a pocket cut, USE EXTREME
CAUTION. To maintain control of the saw
during pocket cutting, keep both hands on
the saw (Fig. 20).
Ripping Wood
Ripping is cutting lengthwise with the grain.
Select the proper blade for your job. Use a
rip fence for rips 4" wide or less. To install the
rip fence, slide the bar through the rip fence
slot in either side of the shoe. The width of
the cut is the distance from the inside of the
blade to the inside edge of the rip fence.
Adjust the rip fence for the desired width,
and lock the setting by tightening the rip
fence screws.
When ripping widths greater than 4", clamp
or tack 1" lumber to workpiece and use the
inside edge of the shoe as a guide.
Cross-Cutting Wood
Cross-cutting is cutting across the grain.
Select the proper blade for your job. Ad-
vance the saw slowly to avoid splintering
the wood.
Cutting Large Panels
Large panels and long boards sag or bend
if they are not correctly supported. If you
attempt to cut without leveling and properly
supporting the workpiece, the blade will tend
to bind, causing KICKBACK.
Support large panels. Be sure to set the
depth of the cut so that you only cut through
the workpiece, not through the supports.
Fig. 18
WARNING
To reduce the risk of electric shock,
check work area for hidden pipes
and wires before making pocket
cuts.
1. Beginning at a corner, line up the sight
line with your cutting line. Tilt the saw
forward, fi rmly fi xing the front of the shoe
on the workpiece. The blade should be
just above cutting line, but not touching
it. Raise the lower guard using the lower
guard lever.
2. Pull the trigger, allowing the blade to come
up to full speed. Using the front of the
shoe as a hinge point, gradually lower the
back end of the saw into the workpiece.
3. When the shoe rests fl at against work-
piece, release the lower guard lever. Ad-
vance the saw to the far corner. Release
the trigger and allow the blade to come to
a complete stop before removing it from
workpiece. Repeat the above steps for
each side of the opening. Use a Sawzall
®
reciprocating saw, jig saw or small hand
saw to fi nish the corners if they are not
completely cut through.
Fig. 19
Fig. 20
WARNING
Dust, chips, and grit can cause
guard to hang up at any time. If saw
is used to cut masonry or metal,
reserve and mark it for that purpose
only and return it to a MILWAUKEE
service facility for cleaning and
testing before using it for wood
cutting.
Cutting Masonry and Metal
MILWAUKEE circular saws are not intended
for continuous use in cutting metal or ma-
sonry. When cutting these materials, use
the correct blade. MILWAUKEE does not
recommend using bonded abrasive wheels
on circular saws for any application.
WARNING
Only use accessories with maxi-
mum speed rating at least as high
as nameplate RPM of tool.
When cutting masonry, use a diamond blade.
Make successive passes at depths of less
than 1/4" to achieve the desired depth. Cut-
ting at a depth of more than 1/4" will damage
wheel. Unplug the tool and frequently clean
dust from air vents and guards.
When cutting metal, use a metal cutting
blade. Set depth of cut to full depth. Protect
everyone in the area from sparks.
WARNING
Do not use tool for cutting metal
near fl ammable material. Sparks
may cause fi re.