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29
2
2
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5
3
1
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6
TO COMPOUND MITER CUT
See Figure 39.
A compound miter cut is a cut made using a miter angle and
a bevel angle at the same time. This type of cut is used to
make picture frames, cut molding, make boxes with sloping
sides, and for certain roof framing cuts.
To make this type of cut the control arm on the miter table
must be rotated to the correct angle and the saw arm must
be tilted to the correct bevel angle. Care should always
be taken when making compound miter setups due to the
interaction of the two angle settings.
Adjustments of miter and bevel settings are interdependent
with one another. Each time you adjust the miter setting you
change the effect of the bevel setting. Also, each time you
adjust the bevel setting you change the effect of the miter
setting.
It may take several settings to obtain the desired cut. The
first angle setting should be checked after setting the second
angle, since adjusting the second angle affects the first.
Once the two correct settings for a particular cut have been
obtained, always make a test cut in scrap material before
making a finish cut in good material.
NOTE: It may be necessary to adjust or remove the sliding
miter fence to insure proper clearance prior to making the
cut.
Make sure the slide lock knob is tightened securely.
Raise saw arm to its full height.
Lift the miter lock lever to unlock. Rotate the miter table
until the pointer aligns with the desired angle on the miter
scale.
NOTE: You can quickly locate 0°, 15°, 22.5°, 31.6°, 45°,
and 60° left or right by spinning the miter thumbwheel up.
The lock plate will seat itself in one of the positive stop
notches, located in the miter table base.
Push the miter lock lever down to lock the miter table.
Lift the bevel lock lever and move the saw arm to the left
or right to the desired bevel angle.
Once the saw arm has been set at the desired angle,
securely tighten the bevel lock lever.
Place the workpiece flat on the miter table with one edge
securely against the fence. If the board is warped, place
the convex side against the fence. If the concave edge
of a board is placed against the fence, the board could
collapse on the blade at the end of the cut, jamming the
blade. See Figures 48 - 49.
When cutting long pieces of lumber or molding, support
the opposite end of the stock with a roller stand or with
a work surface level with the saw table. See Figure 41.
Align the cutting line on the workpiece with the edge of
saw blade.
Grasp the stock firmly with one hand and secure it against
the fence. Use the optional work clamp or a C-clamp to
secure the workpiece when possible.
Before turning on the saw, perform a dry run of the cut-
ting operation to make sure that no problems will occur
when the cut is made.
Make a test cut in scrap material.
Grasp the saw handle firmly. Depress the switch lock
with thumb then squeeze the switch trigger. Allow several
seconds for the blade to reach maximum speed.
Slowly lower the blade into and through the workpiece.
Release the switch trigger and allow the saw blade to
stop rotating before raising the blade out of workpiece
and removing the workpiece from the miter table.
Fig. 39
OPERATION
COMPOUND
MITER CUT