Filter
Top Products
15
ROUGHING A CYLINDER
The large gouge is used in the first turning operation by
smoothing the sharp corners of the work. Run the lathe at
low speed and hold the gouge in the manner shown in
Fig. 33 The cut starts about 2 inches from the tailstock
end and continues from this point to the end of the tail-
stock. Make the second pass beginning about 2” or 3” to
the left of the first cut. Advance again toward the tailstock,
and merge with the previous cut. Toward the end of the
live center, roll the gouge in the opposite direction
(Fig. 34) to carry the final cut off the live center end of the
work. The roughing cut should not be carried out with one
continuous movement, because this would tear long
slivers from the corners of the work. Neither should the
cut be started directly at the end of the stock for the
same reason. The cut can be safely carried from the
center of the stock toward and off either end once the first
roughing cuts have been made.
The position of the gouge involves two or three important
angles. (1) The tool may be advanced along the work
either from right to left or from left to right. Left to right
(from headstock to tailstock) is preferred since this action
throws chips clear of the operator. (2) The gouge is rolled
over slightly in the same direction it is advancing. (3) The
tool is held well up on the work, with the bevel or grind
tangent to the revolving surface (Fig. 35). This position will
give a clean shearing cut. When pushed straight into the
work (Fig. 35), the gouge has a scraping action, (normally
a poor practice in spindle turning). The roughing cut is
continued until the work approaches 1/8” of the required
diameter. Once a cylindrical form has been obtained, the
turning speed can be moved to the second or third speed
setting. NOTE: Continue to move the tool rest inward
toward the work piece to keep the safe distance between
the two.
POSITION OF HANDS
While turning, the hand that holds the tool handle
should be in a natural position. This hand provides the
leverage for the tool by either moving in toward the
chisel or moving out. The position of the tool rest hand is
more a matter of individual preference, rather than a “set”
or “proper” position. However, a palm-up grip (Fig. 36) is
generally considered best. In this position, the first finger
acts as a guide, sliding along the tool rest as the cut is
made. The alternate position is a palm-down grip (Fig.
37). In this position, the heel of the hand or the little finger
serves as a guide. The palm-down position is solid and
positive – excellent for roughing or heavy cutting. Most
beginners start with the palm-down grip, switching later
to the palm-up position for better manipulation of the
chisel.
Fig. 33
Fig. 34
Fig. 35
Fig. 36
Fig. 37