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20
For narrow rip cuts, the rip guide is available as an accessory. Guide the
saw by keeping the inner face of the rip guide (Fig. 20) tight against the edge
of the board.
For making wider cuts, - plywood and wide sheets - clamp or tack a
straight-edge guide or a wooden guide strip on the workpiece. Place the
right edge of the saw against this guide strip for accurate cuts (Fig. 23).
NOTE: Adjust the depth of cut to allow for the thickness of the guide.
BEVEL CUTTING
Bevel cuts are made in the same manner as crosscuts and rip cuts with the
blade set at an angle between 0° and 45° (Fig. 24).
The bevel cut made at an angle to the edge of a board is called a compound
cut. On certain compound cuts, you may need to manually retract the
telescoping guard to allow the blade to enter into and/or through the cut.
Use the lever (C) Fig. 21 or 22 provided on the telescoping
guard when retracting the telescoping guard manually.
POCKET CUTS (PLUNGE CUTTING)
A pocket cut is one that does not start from the edge, but rather starts
within the inside area of the workpiece. Mark the area clearly with lines on all
sides.
Start near the corner of one side and place front edge of saw base firmly on
the work. Hold saw up so blade clears the workpiece. Be sure you have
adjusted the blade properly for depth of cut.
Push the telescoping guard lever all the way back so the blade is exposed
as shown in Fig. 21 or 22. Start the motor and lower the blade into the work.
After the blade has cut through, and the base rests flat on the work, follow
the line right up to the corner. Use a keyhole or bayonet saw to cut the
corners out clean.
When making pocket cuts in stone, tile, etc., with a dry
diamond blade, exercise extreme care to prevent twisting to reduce the
possibility of blade damage.
Fig. 23
Fig. 24