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MAKING A RIP CUT
See Figure 38.
It is recommended you make a test cut on scrap wood.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to avoid serious possible injury.
Position the rip fence the desired distance from the blade
for the cut and securely lock the handle. Adjust the scale
to zero at the cutting edge of the blade.
Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind
the saw for the cut work.
Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning
on the saw.
Use a push block or push stick to move the wood through
the cut past the blade. Never push a small piece of wood
into the blade with your hand; always use a push stick.
The use of push blocks, push sticks, and featherboards
are necessary when making non-through cuts.
Stand to the side of the wood as it contacts the blade to
reduce the chance of injury should kickback occur. Never
stand directly in the line of cut.
Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning
on the saw.
Let the blade build up to full speed before feeding the
workpiece into the blade.
When the cut is made, turn the saw off. Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.
MAKING A MITER CUT
See Figure 39.
It is recommended you make test cuts on scrap wood.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to avoid possible serious injury.
Remove the rip fence by lifting the locking handle.
Set the miter fence to the desired angle and tighten the
lock knob.
Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind
the saw for the cut work.
Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning
on the saw.
Let the blade build up to full speed before moving the
workpiece into the blade.
Feed the workpiece into the blade until the cut has been
completed.
OPERATION
Fig. 38
RIP CUT
BLADE
RIP
FENCE
SCALE
Fig. 39
MITER CUT
BLADE
STRAIGHT
MITER
FENCE
ANGLED
HEIGHT/BEVEL
ADJUSTING
HANDWHEEL