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Beveling
Beveling an edge is the same operation as edge
jointing, except that the fence is tilted to a
specified angle.
!
Make certain material being beveled is over
12 inches long, more than 1/4 inch thick and
1 inch wide.
To bevel:
1. Use a bevel gauge to determine the desired
angle. Then set the fence to the same angle.
2. Inspect stock for soundness and grain
direction (refer to Direction of Grain on
previous page).
3. Set the infeed table for a cut of
approximately 1/16.
4. If the board is bowed (curved), place the
concave edge down on the infeed table.
5. Feed the stock through the cutterhead,
making sure the face of the stock is
completely flat against the fence and the
edge is making solid contact on the infeed
and outfeed tables (Figure 23).
For wood wider than 3 inches – hold with
fingers close together near the top of the
stock, lapping over the board and extending
over the fence.
For wood less than 3 inches wide – use
beveled push blocks and apply pressure
toward the fence. Keep fingers near top of
push block.
Several passes may be required to achieve full
bevel.
Figure 23
Planer Operations
Depth of Cut
Thickness planing refers to the sizing of lumber to
a desired thickness while creating a level surface
parallel to the opposite side of the board. Board
thickness that the planer will produce is indicated
by the scale (see Table Height Adjustment on
page 13). Preset the planer to the desired
thickness of the finished workpiece using the
gauge. The depth-of-cut is adjusted by raising or
lowering the planer table (D, Fig. 12) using the
adjustable handle (C, Fig. 12).
!
The quality of thickness planing depends on
the operator's judgment about the depth of
cut.
!
The depth of cut depends on the width,
hardness, dampness, grain direction and
grain structure of the wood.
!
The maximum thickness of wood that can be
removed in one pass is 5/64" for planing
operations on workpieces up to 5-1/2” wide.
The workpiece must be positioned away from
the center tab on the rollercase to cut 1/8”.
!
The maximum thickness of wood that can be
removed in one pass is 1/16” for planing
operations on workpieces from 5-1/2” up to
10" wide.
!
For optimum planing performance, the depth
of cut should be less than 1/16”.
!
The board should be planed with shallow
cuts until the work has a level side. Once a
level surface has been created, flip the
lumber and create parallel sides.
!
Plane alternate sides until the desired thick-
ness is obtained. When half of the total cut
has been taken from each side, the board
will have a uniform, moisture content and
additional drying will not cause it to warp.
!
The depth of cut should be shallower when
the workpiece is wider.
!
When planing hardwood, take light cuts or
plane the wood in thin widths.
!
Make a test cut with a test piece and verify
the thickness produced.
!
Check the accuracy of the test cut before
working on the finished product.
Precautions
!
A thickness planer is a precision wood-
working machine and should be used on
quality lumber only.
!
Do not plane dirty boards; dirt and small
stones are abrasive and will wear out the
blade.
!
Remove nails and staples. Use the planer to
cut wood only.
!
Avoid knots. Heavily cross-grained wood
makes knots hard. Knots can come lose and
jam the blade. Any article that encounters
planer blades may be forcibly ejected from
the planer creating a risk of injury.