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24
RIP CUTS
1. Remove miter gauge
2. Make sure bevel angle is set to 0°.
3. Set blade to correct height for workpiece.
4. Install rip fence and lock it down parallel with and
at desired distance from blade.
5. Keep fingers at least 6 inches from the blade at
all times. When the hand cannot be safely put
between the blade and the rip fence, select a
larger workpiece, or use a push stick and other
cutting aids, as needed, to control the workpiece.
6. Make sure the workpiece is clear of the blade (at
least 1 inch or 25mm away) before starting the
saw
7. Turn saw on.
8. Hold the workpiece flat on the table and against
the fence (A). The workpiece must have a straight
edge against the fence and must not be warped,
twisted or bowed. See proper hand position in
Figure 24.
9. Let blade build up to full speed before moving
workpiece into the blade.
10. Both hands can be used while starting the cut as
long as hands remain 6 inches from the blade.
11. Keep the workpiece against the table and fence
and slowly feed the workpiece rearward all the
way through the saw blade. Do not overload the
motor by forcing the workpiece into the blade.
OPERATION
(continued)
BEVEL RIPPING
Bevel ripping is the same as ripping except the
bevel angle (A) is set to an angle other than 0°.
When making a bevel rip cut, place the fence on
the right side of the blade so that the blade is tilted
away from the fence and hands.
12. Use the push stick and any other cutting aids,
as needed, to hold the workpiece against the
table and fence, and push the workpiece past the
blade. A push stick is included with this saw, and
instructions are included to make additional push
sticks and other cutting aids.
13. Do not push or hold onto the free or cut-off side of
the workpiece.
14. Continue pushing the workpiece until it is clear of
the blade. Do not overload the motor by forcing the
workpiece into the blade.
15. When cut is complete, turn saw off. Wait for blade
to come to a complete stop before removing
workpiece from table.
FIGURE 25
FIGURE 24
A
45º
0º
A