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Certain types of molding need a fence face exten-
sion because of the size and position of the work-
piece. Holes are provided in the fence to attach an
auxiliary fence. The auxiliary fence is used with the
saw in the 0° bevel position only
.
1. Place a piece of wood against the miter saw fence
(Figure 22). (Wood can have a maximum height
of 4-1/2". Check that auxiliary fence assembly
does not interfere with head assembly.
For splinter-free cuts of molding, attach a one
piece wood auxiliary fence and then cut openings
with miter saw.
2. Mark the locations of the support holes on the
wood from the back side of the fence.
3. Drill and countersink the holes on the front of the
support board.
4. Attach (each) auxiliary fence using two (2)
3/16" flat head machine screws. With 3/4" auxil-
iary fence use 1-1/2" long screws. Secure behind
metal fence with washer and machine nuts.
Alternate: With 3/4" auxiliary fence, use 1/4"
round head screws wood screws (3/4" long). Drill
four (4) smaller (then 1/4" pilot holes through aux-
iliary fence and run screws through rear of metal
fence.
5. Make a full depth cut to create the blade slot.
Check for interference between the auxiliary
fence and the lower blade guard. Make adjust-
ments as necessary.
Check for interference from any
components.
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WARNING
For safety, the switch lever is designed to prevent
accidental starts. To operate safety switch, press the
switch “Lock-OFF” button with either thumb to dis-
engage the lock, then pull the power switch lever
and release the switch “Lock-OFF” release button
(Figure 23). When the power switch lever is re-
leased, the switch “Lock-OFF” button will engage
the safety switch automatically, and the lever will no
longer operate until either “Lock-Off” button is
pressed again.
NOTE: Switch lever can accommodate a padlock
with a long shackle of up to 1/4" in diameter (not
provided with miter saw to prevent unauthorized use.
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