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-40- G0555 14" Ultimate Bandsaw
Figure 43. Measuring wheel difference.
2. Remove the blade from the saw, then
remove the securing nut and the washers
from the wheel that needs to be shimmed.
Take the wheel off.
3. Electrical washers work well for shimming
because they are offered in a wide range of
thicknesses. Measure how many you will
need and place them on the mounting shaft.
If the straightedge will not touch the top and bot-
tom rim of the upper wheel evenly, first determine
if the upper wheel needs to be moved forward or
backward. You can only shim the wheels to come
forward.
• If the forwardmost wheel is behind the
straightedge, then the forwardmost wheel
can be shimmed.
• If the forwardmost wheel comes forward from
the plane of the lower wheel, the lower wheel
needs to be shimmed forward, so the
straightedge lines up even with both wheels.
Shimming a wheel:
1. Adjust the tracking knob so that the top
wheel is parallel with the bottom wheel. With
the straightedge touching both points of the
wheel that does not need to be adjusted,
measure the distance away from the incor-
rect wheel with a fine ruler. See Figure 43.
The distance you measured with the ruler is
the distance the wheel must be corrected.
Figure 44. Coplanar diagram.
4. Replace the wheel, any remaining washers,
and the securing nut. Tighten the blade as it
will be used during operation before you
check the wheels. Often the wheels may be
coplanar with the blade loose, then be pulled
out of alignment when it is tightened.
5. The first time you get the wheels coplanar,
place a mark on each wheel where you held
the straightedge. This assures repeated
accuracy every time you adjust your wheels.
When wheels are properly coplanar, the blade
may not be centered on the crown of the wheel,
but it will be balanced. See Figure 44 to better
understand coplanarity.