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5
LEARNING TO STICK WELD
5
Penetration
Unless a weld penetrates close to 100%, a Butt Joint
will be weaker than the material welded together.
In this example, the total weld is only 1/2” (12.5mm)
the thickness of the material; thus the weld is only
approximately half as strong as the metal.
In this example, the joint has been flame beveled or
ground prior to welding so that 100% penetration
could be achieved. The weld, if properly made, is as
strong or stronger than the original metal.
Fillet Joints
When welding a Fillet Joint, it is very important to hold
the electrode at a 45° angle between the two sides, or
the metal will not distribute itself evenly.
To make it easy to get the 45° angle, it is best to put
the electrode in the holder at a 45° angle, as shown:
JOINT TYPES AND POSITIONS
Five types of welding joints are: Butt joint, Fillet joint,
Lap joint, Edge joint and Corner joint. See Figure 3.
Of these, the Butt Joint and Fillet Joint are the two
most common welds.
FIGURE 3
Butt Joints
Place two plates side by side, leaving 1/16” (1.6mm)
(for thin metal) to 1/8” (3.2mm) (for heavy metal)
space between them in order to get deep penetration.
Securely clamp or tack weld the plates at both ends,
otherwise the heat will cause the plates to move apart.
See Figure 4.
FIGURE 4
Now weld the two plates together. Weld from left to
right (if right handed). Point the Stick electrode
between the two plates, keeping the Electrode Holder
tilted in the direction of travel.
Watch the molten metal to be sure it distributes itself
evenly on both edges and in between the plates. This
is referred to as the “pull technique”. On thin gauge
sheet metal, use the “push technique”.
Butt joint Lap joint
Edge joint Fillet joint Corner joint
Weld Direction