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Easily made from scrap stock, featherboards (=`^li\.')
provide an added degree of protection against kickback,
especially when used together with push sticks. They
also maintain pressure on the workpiece to keep it
against the fence or table while cutting, which makes
the operation easier and safer because the cut can be
completed without the operator’s hands getting near the
blade. The angled ends and flexibility of the fingers allow
the workpiece to move in only one direction, which helps
slow/stop the workpiece if a kickback occurs.
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This sub-section covers the two basic types of
featherboards: 1) Those secured by clamps to the table or
fence, or 2) those secured by a wood runner that mounts
in the table saw miter slot.
Materials for Clamp-Mounted Featherboard
Hardwood
3
⁄4" x 3"-6" x 10"-28" ...............................1
Materials for Miter Slot-Mounted Featherboard
Hardwood
3
⁄4" x 3"-6" x 10"-28" ...............................1
Hardwood
3
⁄8" x (Miter Slot Width) x 5"L ...................1
Wing Nut
1
/4"-20 .................................................1
Flat Head Screw
1
⁄4"-20 x 2" ..................................1
Flat Washer
1
⁄4"-20 .............................................1
To make a featherboard, do these steps:
(% Cut a hardwood board
3
⁄4" thick to size. The length
and width of the board can vary according to your
design. Most featherboards are 10"–28" long and 3"–6"
wide. Make sure the wood grain runs parallel with
the length of the featherboard, so the fingers you
create in Jk\g* will bend without breaking.
)% Cut a 30º angle at one end of the board.
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A
B
30°
2"-3"
1
/
16
"-
1
/
8
"
Kerf
1
/
16
"-
1
/
8
"
Kerf
2"-3"
10" (Minimum)
Initial Cut
Progressively
Longer Cuts
3
/
8
"
3
/
8
"
=`^li\.'% Patterns for featherboards
(top view shown).
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