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RiP CUT HAZARDS AND PRECAUTIONS
Two hazards are specifically associated with rip
cutting: outfeed zone and wrong way feed.
In the outfeed zone (behind the blade), the blade
teeth point down. The slightest contact while the blade
is still spinning can snag clothing, jewelry, the work-
piece, or even skin, causing serious personal injury.
Wrong way feed occurs when the workpiece contacts
the blade from the outfeed side. It is very hazardous
and will jerk the workpiece violently. You could be cut
if you are holding the workpiece.
_11 WARNING: Failure to observe any of these
precautions can result in serious injury.
• The first precaution is, of course, simply to stay
completely away from the outfeed zone. Keep
hands away from the outfeed zone.
• Point the anti-kickback pawls away from the blade
teeth to snag a workpiece if the blade grabs. They
should be positioned to rest lightly on the
workpiece. The flat side of the pawls should be
level and horizontal.
• Set the riving knife to just clear the table.
• Set the hold down in front of the blade to just clear
the workpiece.
• Start and finish your cut from the infeed side.
• Push the workpiece past the pawls with push-
blocks and pushsticks to finish the cut.
• If the blade jams, turn the saw off with the switch
on the arm, remove the yellow key, and wait for the
blade to fully stop before freeing it.
• Make sure the blade is parallel to the fence and the
workpiece is not warped or twisted.
• Make sure no pressure is applied to the workpiece
on the outfeed side.
• Make sure the blade guard is lowered and is
working properly.
• Always set up the workpiece so the wider part of
the wood is between the blade and the fence. This
stabilizes the workpiece better.
• Do not release the workpiece until it has moved
past the pawls. Keep pushsticks firmly in place.
• Use pushsticks and pushblocks, not your hands,
when the trailing edge of the workpiece is within
3 in. of the blade. If the blade is set 2 in. or more
from the fence, use a pushstick. Use a pushblock
and auxiliary fence when the blade is between 2 in.
and 1/2 in. from the fence. (If the cut is narrower
than 1/2 in., use a different saw.) For large panel
rip cuts, use a featherboard instead of pushblocks
or pushsticks. See the section on Cutting Aids.
SETTING UP A RiP CUT
See Figure 45.
A precise and safe rip cut requires a careful set up.
Before setting up for in-rip or out-rip, especially for a
bevel cut, try the workpiece in both placements.
Check for stability, visibility, and control. Test which
will give the best pushstick clearance.
Instructions are given for an in-rip cut. At certain
points, the instructions will vary for a bevel rip cut or
an out-rip process and will be enclosed in parenthe-
ses (example). Figure 40 shows an out-rip setup.
• Insert a solid fence with no kerfs. Use an auxiliary
fence if the blade will be set only 1/2 in. to 2 in.
from the fence. Tighten the table clamps.
• If the arm is too low or too high, first lift the blade
guard if the arm is too low, and turn the elevating
handwheel at the front of the table. Set the blade to
just clear the kerf or table.
• Change the blade angle if needed. Raise the plastic
lower guard to keep it from jamming, release the
bevel lock lever, and set the bevel indicator to zero.
(For a bevel rip cut, set the bevel indicator to
the desired angle.) Test the clearance on the
guard. Retighten the bevel lock lever.
RIPCUT
SWITCH
HOLDDOWN
ELEVATING
HANDWHEEL
INFEEDFOR
IN RIPCUTTING
Fig. 45
CRAFTSMRN_RADIALSAW 315.273731 48