Filter
Top Products
27
NOTE: The knives must be extended
beyond the cutterhead by 1/32”. (see
“Replacing Knives – Straight Cutterhead
Only” on page 23 for this procedure).
4. Re-connect power. It is easier and safer to
take a series of shallow cuts. Lower the
infeed table 1/32” at a time and make
successive cuts until the desired depth of
rabbet has been obtained. See Figure 42.
Jointing Short or Thin Work
When jointing short or thin work pieces, use a
push block to eliminate all danger to the hands.
Two push blocks are shipped with your jointer.
You can also make your own easily from scrap
material. Examples are shown in Figure 43.
Jointing Warped Surfaces
If the wood to be jointed is cupped or bowed,
place the concave side down, and take light cuts
until the surface is flat.
Avoid forcing such material down against the
table – excessive pressure will spring it while
passing the knives, and it will spring back and
remain curved after the cut is completed.
Beveling
To cut a bevel, lock the fence at the required
angle and run the work piece across the knives
while keeping it firmly against the fence and
tables. Several passes may be necessary to
achieve the desired result.
Although the fence may be
tilted in or out for a bevel cut, it is
recommended for safety reasons that the
fence be tilted in toward the operator,
making a cradled cut.
Direction of Grain
Avoid feeding work into the jointer against the
grain. This may result in chipped and splintered
edges. See Figure 44. Feed with the grain to
obtain a smooth surface, as shown in Figure 45.
Skewing (Shear Cutting)
When edging or facing material such as burl or
birds-eye maple, it is not unusual to deface or
mar the surface being finished. This is caused
by the cutterhead knives at times cutting against
the grain. In order to prevent the defacing or
marring of this type wood, it is necessary to
skew the material being worked so that it
crosses the knives at an angle.
The fence will allow for this type of cut:
Figure 43
Figure 44
Figure 45